Author: Eternity Lab

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Sony’s DualSense controllers originally designed for the PS5 are excellent for PC gaming, too, especially if you already own a couple and go back and forth between console and computer. The engineering is solid, as they’re durable and feel good to use, with decent battery life and precise controls. There is one major drawback to using them with a PC, however. If you want to leverage the exclusive adaptive triggers and haptic feedback, compatible mainly with Sony’s PC ports, you have to connect the controller using a USB cable. If you go wireless, you lose those features.

A resourceful developer came up with a tool called DS5Dongle that makes those features work on PC via a wireless connection. As shared on Reddit, you can use this software to turn the $7 Raspberry Pi Pico 2W into a wireless dongle for PS5 controllers. It effectively routes the wireless signal through a low-latency connection while allowing you to retain access to the adaptive triggers and haptic feedback.

It’s simple enough to set up, as well. You hold the BOOTSEL button on the Raspberry Pi Pico 2W and connect it to your PC via USB, then download the DS5Dongle firmware and transfer it to the Pi. Put the DualSense controller into Bluetooth pairing mode, wait for the Pico 2W to detect it and connect, and then away you go. Of course, the Pico 2W by itself is fairly barebones, but you can 3D print a case or find one online to make yours look a little cleaner. There are some really creative uses for a Raspberry Pi, and this wireless dongle certainly fits the bill.

How does the Raspberry Pi mod work, and what are people saying about it?

If you didn’t know how it all works, it would seem too good to be true. The Raspberry Pi acting as the wireless dongle connects to the PC, and when the DualSense connects to the Raspberry Pi, the dongle makes the PC think the controller is using a wired connection, enabling the USB-only features. Alternatively, you can use software like DualSenseX to customize some of these features without the dongle, but now, you can also get the DualSense features working with a relatively inexpensive device and an accessible setup method.

People are already praising the setup as a “game changer,” with multiple threads speaking highly of the Raspberry Pi Pico 2W and DS5Dongle combination. You should know that some games will support the adaptive triggers and haptic feedback, while others do not. “Rocket League,” “No Man’s Sky,” “Horizon Zero Dawn,” “Fallen Order,” “Death Stranding 2,” “Cyberpunk 2077,” and “Days Gone” are a few examples of games that support it.

It may not look tough without a case, so if you’re wondering how long Raspberry Pis last, most users say between 7 and 10 years. If you treat this little Pico 2W dongle with care, you should get some decent life out of it. The exception, of course, is if these features are natively supported later or another software tool makes them available sans dongle — but at that point, you could always repurpose the Pico 2W. There are quite a few quick and easy Raspberry Pi projects for new users, after all.

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There’s something especially frustrating about sitting down in your living room, booting up your TV to watch your favorite program, and running into nothing but problems. While smart TVs have continued to give us more access to our favorite shows, it sometimes feels like they’ve also given us more problems to contend with. It’s almost paramount now to look into the best smart TV brands before you buy one, and even then, any tech is prone to encountering issues here and there — especially as new firmware has a chance to introduce new bugs or problems.

One TV brand that has become pretty popular in recent years, especially thanks to its affordable pricing, is Hisense. And while Hisense TVs offer a lot for their price, like any tech, they might face issues at some point or another. In fact, there are a few common issues that seem to plague these TVs, and knowing how to address them can make dealing with them a good bit easier when they pop up. From black screens to missing sound, here’s what you need to know to fix some of the most common problems Hisense TVs might run into.

Apps freeze and crash consistently

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One of the biggest benefits of smart TVs is being able to download and natively run different applications like Netflix, Apple TV, and Disney+. But what happens when some of these apps start crashing consistently? Well, the first thing you should do is make sure there aren’t any updates available for the TV software. This can help rule out any possible issues that might have arisen from not updating, and you can usually check for updates on Hisense TVs by navigating to Settings > Support > System Upgrade. From there, you can select the Check Firmware Upgrade option and make sure you have Auto Firmware Upgrade turned on, too. This will help avoid any issues with running outdated firmware.

If this doesn’t work, you can try a full reset of your Hisense TV, which you can do by going to Settings > Support (or System) > Factory Reset. Depending on the type of Hisense TV you own, the setting names might be slightly different. For instance, resetting a Hisense TV that uses Roku as the operating system will require you to go into Settings > System > Advanced System Settings > Factory Reset. Remember that factory resetting will erase any data or apps that you might have previously installed on your TV, so proceed only when app crashes become too frequent.

The screen remains black when turned on

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You might run into this issue at some point, where you turn on your Hisense TV and the screen starts to boot up, but it ultimately just remains black the entire time. This can be really frustrating, especially since you can’t get into the TV’s settings to see what is going on. If this happens, the first thing you’ll want to do is restart the TV completely by unplugging it and plugging it back in. If the issue persists, then you’ll want to check all of the power cables and ensure they are properly plugged in and not loose in any way.

If the issue still persists, then you can try resetting your TV. While you’d normally require the screen to work to do this, you can actually reset some Hisense TVs without the remote. First, access the back of the TV and check if it has a reset button, which is often visible as a small recessed button near the connectors on your TV. Using a paperclip or some other small object, press the button until the TV restarts, and then release it. This should reset your TV back to factory defaults, which can help alleviate any software issues that might have been causing the black screen.

Flickering picture

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Another common Hisense TV issue is the flickering of the picture when watching shows or browsing applications. If you notice this happening, the first thing you should do is check whether or not all of your video connections are secured, and that none of your HDMI cables are damaged in any way. If they are damaged, you’ll want to replace them immediately. Even if there doesn’t appear to be any physical damage, it is worth checking if another HDMI cable results in the same flickering, just to rule out any possible problems.

You can try changing your Hisense TV settings related to picture quality to ensure they aren’t causing any issues. You can also try adjusting the brightness of the display if the problem persists. The reason you should try your cables and settings is because sometimes the issue can occur when a cable is not inserted into the connector well enough. This leads to additional signal noise, which can then lead to other problems such as the screen flickering. It’s also worth checking to make sure there isn’t a new firmware update available, and if there is, you can always download it and see if that resolves the issue.

The TV is on, but you don’t have any audio

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Another common issue that you might face with your Hisense TVs is the no audio bug. The first thing to do if you run into this problem is to ensure you didn’t accidentally mute the TV. You can do this by changing the volume on the remote. If that isn’t the cause of the problem, then you’ll want to move on to other troubleshooting steps.

First, try restarting the TV by unplugging it from the wall for 30 seconds to a minute. This gives the components and connections time to reset, and when you plug it back in, the issue may have resolved itself. If that isn’t the case, though, boot up your TV completely and navigate to Settings > Sound and check the audio output to ensure it is going to the correct device. If you’re using a soundbar with your TV, then make sure the soundbar’s cables are properly seated in the TV’s connectors, as if they have come loose, the TV won’t be able to transfer sound data to the speakers.

If none of these fixes make a difference, then navigating to Settings > Sound and then choosing the Reset option can help clear out all the audio settings so you can start fresh. If, for some reason, that still hasn’t resolved the issue, going for a full factory reset is your only remaining option.

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2-in-1 laptops, a hybrid of a laptop and a touchscreen tablet, have technically been around since the ’90s, but they came into prominence in the early 2010s, particularly with the release of the 2-in-1-encouraging Windows 8. While the idea seemed novel and convenient at the time, the unfortunate reality is that the industry has largely moved away from the 2-in-1 format, due to tablets becoming cheaper on their own and PC apps remaining unoptimized for touchscreens.

While there are some appealing aspects of having a touchscreen on your laptop, such as quickly browsing documents, the cost of purchasing one today makes the idea far less appealing, especially compared to just buying a regular laptop and tablet separately. Even if a current laptop has a touchscreen, it’s more just a neat extra feature rather than a central selling point. If you’re currently shopping for your next laptop, you might want to filter out 2-in-1 models, since you’ll be paying for features you’ll likely never use.

Tablets are cheap, apps are unoptimized

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The very first iPad tablet was released in 2010 and changed a lot of what we knew about on-the-go computing. The touchscreen made it easy to navigate certain kinds of apps and documents, in contrast to the occasionally iffy touchpads on laptops of the time. This sparked a major rush of tablet- and touchscreen-centric innovations in subsequent years; as we mentioned, Windows 8 was designed with touchscreens in mind, particularly the then-new Microsoft Surface.

However, in the decade since then, the novelty of tablets has largely worn off. Compared to when the iPad first launched, tablets are now available from a multitude of different brands and in a much wider price range. Where a 16GB iPad with 3G and Wi-Fi would cost you $629, you can now get a Samsung Galaxy tablet with better specs on Amazon for less than half that price. At these prices, paying an upcharge to get tablet-like functionality in a laptop is simply pointless.

Even if cost weren’t a factor, current PC apps aren’t designed for touchscreens anymore. Compared to Windows 8’s enthusiasm for them, touchscreens are basically an afterthought for Windows 11, with even Windows tablets with removable keyboards having little in the way of touch-optimized interfaces. “Optimization” is a keyword here, as most current Windows applications aren’t optimized for touchscreens, with touchpads or a USB mouse being much more comfortable options. 

Granted, Apple’s devices are a little more accommodating of hybrid interfaces than Windows. Even so, if you wanted all-encompassing device flexibility, you’d be more likely to get that from purchasing a MacBook Neo and an iPad Mini piecemeal than a device that tries and fails to serve both functions.

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It’s no secret that we love the PlayStation 5 DualSense controller. We think it’s the best gaming controller currently on the market. The controller is sleek, comfortable, and many developers sneak in additional functionalities, such as sounds that play through the DualSense’s speaker. The controller is the culmination of five generations worth of advancement and weird ideas.

Throughout its life, the PlayStation has been home to (or the inspiration for) some strange controller designs. Remember when Capcom partnered with Nubytech to create a novel chainsaw-shaped controller (complete with sound-activating ripcord) to celebrate the release of “Resident Evil 4?” Or when Capcom collaborated with Hori to manufacture a katana-shaped controller to go with “Onimusha 3: Demon Siege?” Fun times. But these are nothing compared to Sony’s weirdest controller ideas. The company has manufactured and even toyed around with strange controller concepts that make playing a game with a toy chainsaw sound positively banal.

Here are some of Sony’s weirdest controller concepts. For this article we will only cover controllers that were (or would’ve been) first-party products, so no UltraRacer PS1 or Wu-Tang Shaolin Style controllers here.

PS5 Access Controller

Most of this article will consist of controller concepts that were too weird to make it to production (so far), so let’s start out with a strange idea that you can buy right now. Just because something is weird doesn’t mean it isn’t helpful.

The Access Controller is Sony’s proprietary controller designed for people with disabilities. Customizability is the central philosophy behind this device, as every “button” and “trigger” is a paddle you can alter and orient to suit your specific needs. The same is true for the joystick. Although the Access Controller only has one, you can overcome that shortcoming by combining it with other controllers — including another Access or standard DualSense.

Admittedly, the Access Controller looks weird to the average gamer because, to be blunt, we take our full range of finger and arm motion for granted. Sony worked with accessibility consultants to fine tune the Access Controller’s functions and shape to work with people who have various disabilities, and judging by videos people have posted using the peripheral, it works as advertised. Sony is hardly the first company to develop features for people with disabilities — Apple added accessibility functions to many of its devices — but the Access Controller is necessary for people with limited hand mobility that still want to play “Horizon: Zero Dawn.”

Controller with deformable buttons

From here on out, this article will discuss controller concepts that either were too weird for release or Sony has yet to finalize. Case in point: One of the company’s newest patents tries to turn buttons into components that aren’t quite buttons but still are.

Recently, the outlet Cheat Happens uncovered a patent for a series of “deformable buttons” that would be arranged on a “grid-shaped controller.” According to the patent, users will be able to twist, push, and pinch (ew) the buttons — for instance, instead of pressing the X button to make a character jump in a game, players would instead pull it. However these components will also push back since the buttons can deliver “force, weight, impact, and vibrations” to provide haptic feedback, and these would all “dynamically simulate sensations” from gameplay.

The patent and its description read like Sony is trying to make the lovechild of a DualSense controller and back massager with a deforming cloth sheath — or a Bop It, depending on how you read the patent. Could the aforementioned buttons only make up a small part of the controller (e.g., the face buttons), or would they be arranged on the grips? Would the controller be nothing but buttons that reform to create the silhouette of a standard controller? The design is so out there that we have trouble grasping the concept.

Fully touchscreen controller

In order to play video games on a tablet or smartphone, you often need to swipe and tap on virtual thumbsticks and buttons onscreen. Accessories like the Backbone Pro let you slot physical controllers into your device, but nine times out of ten, you’re limited to onscreen controls that rub against your skin. Once upon a time, Sony thought this was the future of gaming. Or maybe it still does.

In 2023, Sony filed a patent for a controller that’s all touchscreen and no physical buttons. Apparently, the idea was players could use the touchscreen to customize the controller layout however they choose. They want to create a left-handed controller where the main face buttons are on the left side? All they have to do is slide the buttons over on the screen. The device would even let players resize buttons, just in case they prefer the layout of the Nintendo GameCube controller.

On paper, the idea has promise, but what makes the controller so weird is why Sony thought it would be a good idea. History has shown that gamers generally prefer physical buttons — it’s why a market for devices like the Backbone Pro exists in the first place. Plus, physical controllers are generally more accurate than virtual buttons. Even if Sony makes this controller, it would never be able to compete with a physical device, especially one with Hall Effect or Tunneling Magnetoresistance joysticks. Now if Sony took inspiration from the Turtle Beach Stealth Pivot or Thrustmaster ESwap S Pro controllers, that peripheral could work.

Hybrid Move controller

The Nintendo Switch and Switch 2’s Joy-Con is a novel controller design. Who ever thought two halves of a controller that could snap together to form a larger controller or the sides of a handheld device could be so fun? Sony did, apparently.

In 2011, Sony patented a controller that could split apart into two separate controllers. The basic idea was that they normally formed a whole Sixaxis controller (the controller Sony designed for the PlayStation 3) but could decouple into two separate PlayStation Move controllers. However, the company didn’t quite nail down how to secure the controller halves. Judging by the patent’s pictures, Sony was toying with ideas such as a twist-and-lock and a rail system.

Sony’s concept (which obviously never came to fruition) was admittedly ambitious, but what was the endgame? Did Sony want to go all in on the PlayStation Move for the PlayStation 4 and wanted to develop a device gamers could use for all titles regardless of control method? Were the balls on the end (a big part of all Move controllers) supposed to be a precursor to the light bars in DualShock 4 and DualSense controllers? And more importantly, why did Sony abandon this idea? We have so many burning questions.

Prototype PS1 Controller

Anyone with even a modicum of video game history knowledge knows the original PlayStation began life as a collaborative console between Sony and Nintendo. This is why the original prototype controller looked like a Super Nintendo controller. But after Nintendo reneged, Sony had to create its own console and peripherals, and since the company had no experience doing that, it came up with many weird designs.

Arguably the most infamous (and strangest) prototype for a proper PlayStation controller was one of if not the first development kit controllers. Like the finalized controller, this one had a d-pad and face buttons — analog sticks weren’t added until 1996/1997 — but it lacked the DualShock’s iconic gripping prongs. However, the controller had six face buttons (not including Start and Select), and its main gripping surfaces were two circular areas that faced towards the console instead of away from it.

Let’s be blunt: This prototype controller looks like it was uncomfortable to hold. It doesn’t matter whether a device has prongs or not, as the best ones have d-pads, buttons, and other components that sit above where the palm would rest on the controller’s underside. PlayStation’s first stab looks more like a backwards Sega Genesis (and by extent Sega Genesis Mini) controller. And what’s with the extra two buttons near the main four face ones? At least when third-party controller manufacturers add extra buttons, they’re usually placed in areas that don’t get a ton of traffic. Had Sony gone with this design, gamers would probably have been turned off, because six face buttons is two too many.

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Ever looked down at your keyboard and wondered what all the buttons on it do? While some are pretty easy to understand — like Backspace or Page Down — there are some keys that you might not immediately recognize the benefit of, like the Pause Break key. This key is usually found on the top-right portion of the keyboard, and can sometimes be labeled with Pause, Pause Break, or just an abbreviation like PSE. Like all elements of the keyboard, including the bumps on the F and J keys, the Pause Break key has a reason for existing. It has just changed slightly over time.

This key originates from the mid-19th century, when telegraphs were used for long-distance communication. The original Break key could be used to break the circuit, allowing one side of the telegraph conversation to let the other know they needed to send a message. This has evolved over the years, especially with the move to computers, and the reason you might not immediately know why this key exists is that its functionality has mostly been moved to other keys in recent years.

For example, many apps now use the spacebar to activate their pause functionality instead of the Pause Break key. However, in older systems, the key was used to send a specific signal to the computer’s mainframe, allowing it to break off and interrupt certain functions. It can still be used as part of the debugging process, especially in Windows, when using the Command Prompt and other terminal-like applications that allow more granular access to the system.

Here’s what the Pause Break key can do on modern systems

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While the use of the Pause side of the Pause Break key has mostly been replaced, the key can still be used for a myriad of things. For example, you can disable or remap the key entirely if you so choose. However, there are also a few easy hotkey setups you can use with the Pause Break key. Pressing the Windows Key + Pause Break opens the System Properties window (or System settings, depending on your version of Windows), allowing you easy access to information about your PC. You can also press Control + Pause Break to stop long-running console commands in Command Prompt or PowerShell, especially if there are legacy utilities or scripts involved.

Another use for the Pause Break key is during boot up, typically called Post, of your PC. When you have all the boot-up text displayed on your screen, you can press the Pause Break key to pause the text, allowing you to pause the information as it scrolls so you can check for any errors. It doesn’t work on every PC, but you can test it easily to see if it does on yours. It’s also possible that your keyboard doesn’t have the Pause Break key, as modern keyboards can vary widely, especially between countries, as seen in the differences between American and British keyboards.

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Even though newer, better models exist today, some older tablets are still worth buying in 2026. That’s because you can find secondhand models in good condition at promotional prices from retailers and the marketplace. Even without the same hardware as the latest flagship models, some older tablets still handle most basic tasks for many users.

For anyone looking to save money on tablets while still getting premium features, older tablets are the best option. You can find AMOLED screens, or even capable hardware, that, among recent models, are available only in more expensive versions. Some older high-end tablets even offer a better experience than an entry-level model released later.

However, that does not mean every old tablet deserves your money. Some models lost important security updates or even have weaker components, such as low RAM or processor power. These factors can make those tablets struggle with modern apps, so you should try to avoid them.

Samsung Galaxy Tab S8 and S8+ (2022)

The Galaxy Tab S8 has already been around for four years, but Samsung Galaxy tablets are still a great choice over flagship models and can save a bit of money at the same time. This mainly comes from the Snapdragon 8 Gen 1 processor it uses, and although it is not suitable for gaming, it remains a pretty powerful processor nonetheless.

The main reason to consider buying it is, surely, the price. Because the Tab S8 has been around for so long, promotional pricing can put it on par with current mid-range tablets. It’s also easier to find a secondhand version. Even though newer models may outperform it, it’s still a powerful tablet for everyday use, and it costs much less than the latest ones. The S8 is still within Samsung’s update window and should receive new security patches this year, but don’t expect One UI 9 or Android 17.

The Tab S8+ is always up there if you want a large display size. It has the same chip and hardware, but a better display than the baseline model. This model offers a 12.4” AMOLED display, a standout option for all those looking for productivity and entertainment solutions.

Samsung Galaxy Tab S9 FE (2023)

Samsung typically releases “Fan Edition” versions of its flagship models, cutting some features to lower the price while keeping some premium elements. That’s what makes the Galaxy Tab S9 FE one of the best Samsung tablets for the price, because you can still get some of that flagship-like stuff for a lower price. One, for instance, is the S Pen included in the box, which is good for people who enjoy drawing or need precision when touching the screen.

Other than these features, there’s also the inclusion of an IP68 rating for dust and water resistance, something that you can hardly find within this budget. On the other hand, the Exynos 1380 may struggle with gaming, while it’s still good for other daily tasks.

However, with its IPS LCD screen, this tablet offers excellent video quality, featuring a 10.9-inch display, 2304×1440-pixel resolution, and a 90Hz refresh rate. Also, since the S9 FE is within the Samsung update window, it should receive significant software and security updates until 2028.

Google Pixel Tablet (2023)

The Google Pixel Tablet is one of the most unique devices around, since it acts as both a tablet and a Nest Hub. That’s because it comes with a dock that lets you transform the device into something resembling a smart display. Even if you don’t use those features, this version of Google’s Android operating system is far cleaner than many of its competitors.

Another great thing about the Google Pixel Tablet is that early in 2026, Google said it would extend support for the product from three to five years. Updates that would have ended sooner are now guaranteed to run until 2028 — especially after Google announced it had shelved development of a follow-up device. Still, it is good news for anyone who already owns one or plans to buy it.

The Google Pixel Tablet is equipped with the Tensor G2 chipset and 8GB of RAM.  While it is slower than most Snapdragon chipsets, it can handle your everyday tasks. The only negatives are the device’s 60Hz screen and the lack of a MicroSD slot, meaning you’re limited to the device’s internal storage.

OnePlus Pad (2023)

One of the reasons the OnePlus Pad struggled at launch was that it didn’t have much of a reputation in the tablet segment. It also had a MediaTek Dimensity 9000 chip, not the Qualcomm chip many consumers were already used to. So going with one of the tried-and-true offerings from Apple or Samsung felt safer than spending on something new, as it did with the first one.

However, this model came with impressive specs and is still one of the best Android devices you can find on a budget. For example, the 11.6″ display has a 144Hz refresh rate. The battery is extremely powerful, as the 9,510mAh provides up to 12 hours of video playback. Some versions come with 12GB RAM, which makes them great for some games too.

There are a couple of cons for this OnePlus Pad, namely limited update availability, despite running Android 16 and OxygenOS 16. This model also doesn’t include 5G connectivity, but even with these downsides, the price drop makes this device worth buying in 2026.

Xiaomi Pad 6 (2023)

Despite some issues with future software updates, the Xiaomi Pad 6 remains one of the best old tablets you can buy in 2026. It’s an affordable tablet if you find one in the secondhand market, and it offers both a Snapdragon 870 processor and a 144Hz display.While it might not be the best tablet for gaming, this model’s high-resolution screen is great for watching videos.

The Xiaomi Pad 6 has a pretty big battery capacity. Its battery comes in at 8,840 mAh, with estimates that it will provide around 12 hours of battery life while performing common tasks like browsing the web or watching videos.However, while the hardware is really impressive in this product, the Xiaomi Pad 6 lacks some future software upgrades. The latest update of this device was released in 2025, being Android 14 with Xiaomi’s HyperOS system. The Xiaomi will not support Android 15 or later, so it’s important to keep that in mind if you’re considering this one. 

How we chose these tablets

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To make the cut as a good option for an older tablet to use in 2026, these tablets were evaluated mainly by performance. Several models on this list no longer handle heavier tasks, such as gaming, as they did when they were new, but are still good choices for daily use. 

Models with at least 6GB of RAM were selected to ensure better performance. Prices were also considered. The major point of those devices is that you’re paying less than their launch price or a 2026 model without sacrificing everyday performance.

Lastly, although some tablets listed above no longer support software updates, they continue to receive security patches. It’s crucial for such gadgets to have this support, since if your tablet contains sensitive information, including banking apps, you reduce the risk of vulnerabilities and data breaches.

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When you’re onboard what is essentially a massive floating city, isolated in the middle of the ocean, logistics like resupply can be a massive nightmare. Refueling is also staggeringly expensive. A conventionally powered aircraft carrier like the (now retired) USS Kitty Hawk requires up to 700,000 barrels of oil a year. At the current price of oil, $83.46 per barrel, that’s more than $58 million per year, or slightly over $160,000 every day. Conventional fuel also takes up a massive amount of space, and coordinating delivery and refueling with supporting vessels adds further logistical challenges and expense. With all those factors in mind, the appeal of nuclear power becomes pretty obvious. 

Nuclear reactors can operate for 20 years or more without ever needing to be refueled (though when necessary, that refueling process is a huge undertaking), and they’re also smaller than traditional generators and their required fuel stores. However, new power requirements for increasingly sophisticated systems are demanding more and more power, which means larger reactors. So how do they work, and what’s drawing all that power? Let’s dive in.

The basics of nuclear power

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In a sense, nuclear power is actually delightfully steampunk. A nuclear pressurized water reactor (PWR) works by splitting enriched uranium atoms through nuclear fission. Water is kept at high pressure so that it won’t boil, even at extreme temperatures. That pressurized water is then fed into the core of the reactor, which superheats it before passing it on to a heat exchanger.

The exchanger allows the water to pass its heat to a secondary loop of non-pressurized water which does boil, generating blasts of steam that drive turbines. Those turbines are attached to systems like the propellers that move the vessel through the water, or to electric generators that transform the kinetic energy into electrical energy to power various systems.

Meanwhile, in the reactor, control rods absorb excess neutrons produced during nuclear fission to regulate output. After the steam has done its job, it’s recaptured by condensation and recycled back into the system so it can be reused, creating a continuous cycle. PWRs are popular because they avoid boiling water inside the reactor itself, which can cause instability, and they concentrate all radioactive material safely inside the primary loop, reducing the possibility of leaks or contamination.

Why reactors are so large

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The main reason that modern reactors/generators have to be so huge, and pump out so much energy, is that the demands of a modern carrier are so much steeper than older ships. As you can imagine from a vessel housing between 60 and 90 aircraft and carrying more than 4,000 people, even older carriers required absolutely massive amounts of power. That demand for energy has continued to increase with the incorporation of modern technology and weaponry.

Take the electromagnetic aircraft launch systems (EMALS), for instance. It’s the catapult system that allows aircraft like fighter jets to launch from the deck of a carrier despite the short runway. Where old versions used high-pressure steam, EMALS use electromagnetic force generated by a linear electric motor stretched out along the flight deck. EMALS allow for much finer control over aircraft speed and acceleration than their predecessors (meaning less structural stress on aircraft), and eliminate the need for the large mechanical braking systems used in steam systems. However, as you’ve probably gathered, they also use significantly more power than steam alternatives, up to triple the voltage.

EMALS are just the tip of the iceberg. Modern carriers also need to provide power to highly advanced sensor and radar arrays, weapons elevators, and an advanced arresting system to help “catch” returning aircraft without damaging them. There are also more mundane concerns, like lighting, HVAC, and desalination. In the latest generation Ford-class carriers, energy is also required to power futuristic directed-energy weapons, like prototype solid-state lasers for disabling or destroying hostile drones. It’s easy to see why these cutting edge carriers require massive reactors with compartments on the scale of small buildings.

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Not too many years ago, having a microphone plugged into your computer was either a simple novelty or a professional-only tool for making music or sound effects. These days, though, PC microphones are a dime a dozen, whether it’s a budget or expensive gaming headset or a laptop with a mic built right in. Having either a built-in or standalone mic is naturally useful in today’s interconnected world for things like Zoom calls, but that’s far from their only purpose. With a microphone, you can use all kinds of interesting features, from dictating and transcribing text to browsing the ‘net without ever touching your keyboard.

To better accommodate the modern functions and purposes of microphones, Windows 11 has numerous voice-powered features built in, which you can access with a quick setup and a bit of know-how. Not only that, but there are also third-party apps you can use with your voice, such as smart assistants for controlling gadgets around your home. If you’ve got a microphone on your PC and haven’t done anything particularly interesting on it, there are all kinds of cool tricks you can pull if you just know how.

Dictate text documents

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One of the baseline features of a microphone-equipped PC is voice recognition for dictation and transcription. In fact, this feature is even older than microphones for voice or video calls, with one of the most prominent examples, Dragon NaturallySpeaking, released in 1997. Of course, we’re well past the point of needing a dedicated app for dictation and transcription; Windows can do it natively now.

Once your PC’s microphone is set up and programmed to recognize your voice, you can use the Windows dictation shortcut to begin automatic speech-to-text. Just click on any text entry field and, assuming you don’t have a dedicated microphone button on your keyboard, press the Windows key and the H key to activate dictation mode. Your PC will let you know it’s listening, and you can begin speaking into the microphone to transcribe whatever you say. It’s a convenient, hands-free way to take notes or write simple documents, especially if you’re not the best at touch-typing. The only catch is that Windows will only have native support for whatever language is set for your current region, so if you want to speak a different language, you’ll need to install it separately via the Language & region menu in your Windows settings. The good news is that there are numerous language packs you can install, including French, German, Japanese, and multiple forms of English and Chinese.

Remotely use your mouse and keyboard

Speaking of hands-free PC operation, dictation isn’t the only way your PC’s microphone can keep your hands off the keyboard. Using Windows speech recognition, you can actually interface with most aspects of your PC in the same way you would with your mouse and keyboard. Beyond being a convenient hands-free option, this feature is invaluable for those with impaired or diminished motor skills in their hands. This, for example, ensures you can still use your PC even if you’ve injured your hands somehow, all without having to touch your peripherals.

Using the Voice Access feature in Windows 11, you can dictate both individual keystrokes and mouse interactions. In the case of the former, simply activate dictation mode, and clearly speak the keys you want to speak. This can be used for entering text into entry fields on a web browser, for example, but you can also use commands like “select that” to select entered text, then dictate keyboard shortcuts like “control, C, control, V” to use copy-and-paste, though you could also just say “copy that” and “paste that.”

As for using the mouse, you can use voice commands to manually move the mouse pointer around your screen, then simply command “click” or “double-click” to click on objects and links. You can even drag and drop items on your desktop the same way you normally would. If the screen is a little too large to move around in this manner, you can speed things up with the “show grid” command, which creates a numbered grid across your screen. Just say one of the grid’s numbers, and your pointer will automatically jump to that numbered segment.

Activate functions and shortcuts

Interfacing with your PC isn’t just about typing and clicking. Experienced users use a multitude of functions and shortcuts to simplify processes. In the same way, while you can manually enter text and move the mouse around using Windows Voice Access, there are many scenarios where it would probably be easier to use a shorthand command, of which there are quite a few.

For example, if you wanted to open a particular app like Firefox or Slack, all you’d have to do is say “Open Firefox” or “Open Slack.” Similarly, you can close apps by saying “close,” followed by the app’s name. Using commands, you can swap between active windows, minimize or maximize them, jump right to the desktop, and scroll up and down on larger pages. You can also interact with items on your display directly rather than commanding the mouse pointer over them. If you wanted to open the Recycle Bin on your desktop, for instance, you could just say “double-click Recycle Bin.” If an item on your screen doesn’t have a clear name to refer to it by, you can instead use the “show numbers” command to activate a numbered overlay, assigning numbers to every interactable item currently shown. When you see what you want to click on, just say “click” and the number it’s been assigned.

Use a smart assistant

If taking Zoom calls is one of the primary reasons to have a microphone on your computer, the other is using smart assistants. Smart assistants have become a staple of many people’s everyday lives, accessed via smart speakers to control various compatible devices around their homes. Microsoft used to have its own smart assistant, Cortana, though it was discontinued in 2023 and removed from all subsequent versions of Windows. While Cortana’s off the table, though, there are still other smart assistants you can use through a PC, chief among them being Alexa.

Amazon’s Alexa smart assistant can be utilized through a Windows PC via the dedicated Alexa app in the Microsoft Store. As with using Alexa on a smartphone or through a smart speaker, you can use your PC’s microphone to issue various handy commands, from checking the weather to answering innocuous questions. More than that, if you have an existing Alexa smart framework in your home that connects various smart devices, you can control all of them through the Windows Alexa app, using your voice to control lights or activate security systems, for example.

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You’re standing by the water when you suddenly drop your phone. Plop. After fishing it out, you’ll rush home and dump it in a bowl of rice. You’ve always heard rice will siphon off moisture, drying out the internals and saving it from the doom of a pseudo-watery grave. 

Except that’s not going to work. Drying your phone in rice is actually a myth. In fact, if you do submerge your phone in rice, you could cause more damage. Rice dust and small particles can make their way inside and gunk up the components. You should also avoid foreign objects like cotton swabs or Q-tips, and you should not use a hair dryer or compressed air. All of these things can damage your device. Apple even went on record to explain this exact process, noting what to avoid if you get your iPhone wet or see liquid-detection alerts. 

If you have a newer phone, you might be okay. Many new phones are waterproof thanks to special coatings and designs. If your phone isn’t waterproof, the first thing you’ll want to do is power it down. Dry off the exterior as much as possible with what you have handy, like a shirt or towel. If possible, take out the SIM card, remove the back housing, and remove the battery. Hold it upright so the connector ports face down, and gently tap the sides to release any excess liquid. After that, leave the phone in a well-ventilated area.

The right way to clean a wet phone is to use alcohol

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The best way to remove the water is to use an alcohol-based solution. This will clean the components and prevent corrosion, which is the real silent killer of moisture inside a device. It’s especially concerning when dealing with seawater or chlorinated pool water, but it can also happen with juice and sugary drinks. The liquid alone may not do much damage. It could short-circuit powered elements, but corrosion is the true concern. There are numerous instances of working iPhones being found underwater after nearly a year in a lake or other body of water. One iPhone X was submerged in the ocean for eight hours and came out unscathed.

iFixit experts recommend scrubbing gently with a 90% isopropyl alcohol solution (rubbing alcohol) and a toothbrush. Take the phone apart, remove the battery and submerge the phone’s motherboard in alcohol. Scrub for good measure. Afterward, allow it to dry and check to see if the device survived its watery encounter. 

The reason that’s not the first recommended step is that you have to disassemble your phone to access the inside, and that’s not a novice-friendly task, nor is it always possible. But it is the best solution for “displacing” moisture and cleaning potential residues left behind. Saltwater is very corrosive, especially for electronics, so if your phone falls in the ocean or a saltwater pool, you want to get it as clean as possible after, removing not only the moisture but everything else, too.

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Planes, trains, automobiles, mini figurines, spaceships, you can build a model of just about anything, and it’s a lot of fun, too. While some easy kits claim you don’t need tools, the more advanced ones will require you to have, at the very least, a craft knife. From there, you may need a sander, painting brushes and supplies, glue or adhesive, and a few other small gadgets. Believe it or not, if you’re 3D printing the model parts yourself, you’ll still need a lot of those tools – 3D prints don’t come out perfect. If you really want to keep the force strong with those Star Wars-inspired 3D printing projects, with clean lines and sci-fi-esque designs, pro-grade tools are a must.

The tools you need are going to depend on the task at hand, of course. If you’re painting mini-figurines that are already assembled, that’s going to be a very different process than putting together a model car. Regardless of what you’re building, there are some essential gadgets that can help. Though it may be obvious to some, you don’t necessarily need these gadgets to get the work done.

The basics, including a precision craft knife, some paint and fine brushes, sandpaper or metal files, and a solid workstation, are really the only true requirements. The following tools are essential because they will significantly speed up the experience and help eliminate a lot of minor frustrations.

Hozo NeoBlade

Hands down, the first and most important tool in any model builder’s arsenal is a precision crafting knife, which you might recognize as an X-acto knife. If you prefer simple designs, there are plenty of precision craft sets out there. But if you want ultra-precise, ultra-smooth cuts that are remarkably accessible, meaning anyone of any skill level can achieve them, Hozo’s NeoBlade is the knife to splurge on for $149. It’s a sleek, electric portable cutter that uses ultrasonic vibrations to slice through various materials like leather, resin, and carbon fiber.

You may notice some of those materials are thick and troublesome to cut through with your average craft knife, but the Hozo NeoBlade makes short work of them. The NeoBlade delivers ultrasonic vibrations at 40,000Hz, so it basically makes super-fast saw blade-style motion cuts. It also employs a unique airflow cooling system to prevent all the internals from overheating, no matter how difficult the cutting task. It’s wireless and comes with two hot-swappable batteries.

There are also six types of blades for different cutting styles and optional accessories, like storage cases, charging docks, and self-healing cutting mats for the surface of your workstation. You’ll be doing a lot of cutting, whether it’s removing individual plastic or wood model parts from their frames or trimming pieces from your 3D prints. The Hozo NeoBlade makes that fast, easy, and precise.

Hozo NeoSander

Another Hozo gadget is a unique tool called the NeoSander. It’s an electric, portable reciprocating detail sander with a huge amount of modularity. To keep it simple, it’s a precise sanding and finishing tool that uses a linear back-and-forth motion, versus rotary tools, without spinning or wobbling. That allows it to stay consistent during use, is easier to control, and results in incredibly detailed and polished pieces or surfaces. The tips of the tool can be swapped out like drill bits for a drill, and there’s even a saw-like attachment, so it could stand in as a wood, resin, or plastic cutter if you didn’t want a separate knife.

The premium combo is $169 and includes the tool, a charging dock, additional accessories, and a 64-piece multicolored sanding attachment kit. This will be especially useful for 3D prints that come out with rough edges, nubs, or bits and bobs that need to be sanded down or polished away. It can also smooth out surfaces after you do a cut with a knife. Alternatively, you could go with the basic set if you’re on a budget, which costs around $70. This wouldn’t be a bad tool to use for 3D projects that take your Raspberry Pi builds to the next level, polishing or finishing 3D printed cases and other modular shells.

Micro-Mark Brushcam

Painting requires a steady hand, a keen eye, and some solid linework, but in the case of mini figurines or small pieces, as you’d make for Warhammer or a tabletop D&D session, you need a much closer peek at where those brush strokes are going. The Micro-Mark BrushCam is ideal for that. It’s a custom-made battery-powered and USB-rechargeable brush camera that attaches to any paintbrush, thanks to a specially-designed adapter. It delivers 10x magnification and broadcasts video to your phone or tablet, via an app available for Android and iOS devices.

The camera helps magnify the tip of the paint brush so you can see where it’s going and what parts of the model it’s coloring. That makes it infinitely easier to add more details to bland models. You can do things like color faces on resin figures or add minor accoutrements to bigger models, and so on. The fact that you can supply your own brush is a huge boon; you’re not locked into a proprietary design or model. The Micro-Mark BrushCam is $90 at full price.

Revopoint Inspire 2

The Revopoint Inspire 2 is a 3D hand scanner with built-in Wi-Fi that lets you scan virtually any item of any shape and any surface to create a digital model. You can then take that model and modify it to create 3D printer blueprints or digital pieces — like prefabrications for video games or 3D modeling software. It’s primarily useful to anyone with a 3D printer, as it won’t do much for regular models or toy figures, but that doesn’t make it any less valuable for those who can leverage it. Some of the coolest 3D printing projects you should try at some point are essentially models or miniature recreations. All things you could easily scan and recreate with a gadget like the Inspire 2.

It creates highly detailed and accurate models with relatively simple scanning techniques. You don’t necessarily have to have experience working with models or 3D modeling tools, though it certainly helps. It’s battery-operated, comes with USB-charging gear, and includes a tripod for stable setups. It’s small enough to fit in a backpack, day bag, or purse, too, so you can take it with you everywhere and scan things you encounter in the world, within reason.

Some protected items or designs may not be legally scannable. That said, you can use it to scan and print architecture and fantasy-related models, arts and sculpture, and most anything you see or can imagine. The Revopoint Inspire 2 standard model is $549 at full price, while the premium package for $629 includes a mobile-mounting kit that works similarly to a selfie stick or handheld camera mount.

Neatfi XL desk lamp

Chances are, you have some kind of workspace — you always need a reliable area to build your models — but whether it’s in a dimly lit room or there’s bright overhead lighting, you’re still going to need a lighting source that’s adjustable and capable of getting in real close. Enter Neatfi’s excellent hobbyist-style desk lamps. The XL 2200 Lumens lamp, for example, comes with a built-in clamp that allows you to secure it to the surface of any tabletop, desk, or makeshift workbench, even if you have plywood resting atop some sawhorses.

That clamp, the adjustable arm, and the four levels of dimming allow you to completely fine-tune the lighting angles and brightness. That may not seem like much, but when you’re in the thick of sanding, finishing, painting, or admiring your figurines and models, it’s going to make all the difference. It’s also designed to be glare-free, won’t flicker during use, and is easier on your eyes.

It’s not “smart” as there are no app controls, there’s no built-in Wi-Fi, or anything connected. But even so, it’s an incredibly invaluable tool to have at your work desk or station that gives you a lot of light to see and focus on whatever task you’re doing. The company also offers a variety of other similar desk lamps with varying styles and brightness levels. Adding more than one could also be an option for better lighting all-around.

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